Wednesday, April 30, 2008

leftovers righted--part I

Sorry folks--the last week or so I've been an absolute train wreck. Between making difficult life decisions, prepping for Passover, getting next week's fieldwork trip to Nevada figured out [yeah, i'll be gone again], and losing two weeks worth of edits on a manuscript, my days have been non-stop ca-razy.

Excuses, excuses. I know.

Luckily, my food life has not felt the agony, but perhaps it's just a delayed reaction. In general, however, it seems that the more crazy my general life is the better my food life becomes.

It's funny, many people can't seem to fathom the amount of time I spend cooking. They think I'm crazy. You can't even begin to see it from reading this blog. It's something I think about constantly and look forward to doing. But, I guess I can see where people are coming from: where cooking is stress-inducing for many it is stress-reducing for me. I enjoy the creative and academic challenges it provides me; it challenges me in ways that work and classes and other entertainment medias can't. It forces me to consider interesting questions and also forces me to develop a sense of focus in periods when I'm completely unfocused. It's a good way to center myself daily.

Plus, at the end of it I have a delicious and edible result...at least, most of the time I do.


Last week was Passover.

Passover has always proved a challenge to me, both from a culinary and emotional standpoint. I didn't grow up in a Jew-rich community, so I would often be the only person in my lunch group relegated to eating matzo. It's not like this was a big deal, and my friends really didn't care. It was never a topic of conversation. Nonetheless, there was always a little twinge of feeling different, in a bad way. Plus, I hated matzo.

Of course, I was younger and more naive then. I didn't understand, or care to understand, a lot of things. So, for many reasons I won't go into here, I eventually came to like Passover. The great seders I had in college [after Year One's disaster] have definitely helped in that department.

Now, don't get me wrong.--it's not that I ever hated Passover. I've always loved the main Passover event, the big First Night Seder. It's usually a lot of fun at my house, and it's the time when mom makes my favorite thing: her chicken soup. Add in the matzo balls to that and voila! Sheer bliss. In addition to The Great And Wondrous Soup, there were also loads of other great foods, like brisket and charoset and Hillel sandwiches and macaroons and mum's meringues and the absolutely incredible tin of Barton's Almond Kisses. Ohhhhh yum. Yeah, during the seder there was never a feeling of missing bread and it's relatives.

But then, after the Afikomen was found and the party was over, there were not only lots of dishes to be cleaned, but, inevitably, lots of leftovers as well.

Oh, the dreaded leftovers.

Sure, they were good on their own. Plus, chicken salad made from the soup chicken was always delightful. But, by the time the third or fourth day of eight rolled around, I was sick of it. And, of course, lunch was a disaster--matzo sandwiches are only good for so long. We tried to supplement with things like K for P "cereals", which were gross.

So, leftovers were always a problem. Plus, since we usually followed Ashkenazic traditions rather than Sephardic ones, a whole lot of things were off limits. That, of course, didn't help things.

I've never really come up with a solution to the leftovers problem. However, this year, I made a concerted effort to try and do something about it. My efforts were quite fruitful and I came up with a few fun ideas. The recipes I'll post over the next few days are heavy on the matzo side, so for those who love the stuff, these are things you can make any time of year.

(Ironically, I've found over the years that many many non-Jews have a strong love of matzo, while many man Jews don't care for it so much.)



Today's Menu:

Steak 'n' Eggs Matzo Brei



Matzo brei is a popular Passover dish that consists of...well, eggs and matzo. It was never big in our house--why include matzo when you can have eggs straight up?
But, generally, people have very strong opinions on matzo brei and how it should be made.

One thing, however, is (almost) ubiquitous among recipes: the ratio of 1 matzo to 1 egg. After that, all hell breaks loose (see the comments section).

Matzo brei tends to be very lacking in the flavor department. For some reason, most people don't add anything to the concoction of eggs and matzo. Perhaps a bit of salt, but really nothing else. So, this year, I decided to put some effort into rectifying the flavorlessness problem of matzo brei:

I made brisket for the main seder, which, of course, I had leftover. No surprise, I got kind of tired of eating it plain. So, one night last week I came home after a long, very hard day and wanted something easy, but different, for dinner. And so came my creation.

It turned out pretty well, I must say. The brisket itself was highly flavorful and had a fair bit of salt, so I didn't really add anything else to the mix. A nice Passover take on the classic dish and one I will surely make again!






Steak 'n' Eggs Matzo Brei



[note: this recipe was based on one from The Perfect Pantry. I used leftover brisket I had, but you can use any type of meat you've got lying around]



2 pieces plain matzo

2 eggs

leftover brisket

water
butter [or margarine, if you wanna keep it kosher]



directions:

1. prepare the matzo
a.
in a large bowl, break up the matzo into pieces. fill the bowl with hot water to cover.
b. when matzo become soft [not disintegrating], grab small handfuls and squeeze with all your might. get out the water and drop the clumps into a separate bowl. repeat this process until you've got all the matzo in clumps.

2. make the mixture
a. whisk together the eggs and pour them over the matzo clumps. lightly mix to cover the clumps with egg.
b. pull the brisket apart into small pieces and add them to the bowl. mix again to incorporate.

3. cook the matzo brei
a. put some butter in a skillet and melt over medium heat. turn the pan to coat the bottom and sides.
b. when butter is hot, pour the matzo-egg mixture into the pan and press down with a spatula to make it into a flat cake.
c. cover and let cook, about 10 minutes over medium-low heat, until the bottom has browned.
d. flip the whole cake, or cut into wedges and flip individually, and let the other side brown.






take that Leftover #1!!





Comments, questions, and recipe alterations are always more than welcome.

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

tv is good for kids.

People always ask me when I started cooking and most seemed shocked to find out the answer: I first started cooking when I was 7 years old. I'm not talking about making spaghetti or stirring the pot--I was 7 when I started to seriously get into cooking.

I remember loving the times when my parents would go out for the day and let me stay home alone or with my brother. When that happened, I would plop myself down on the couch and turn on TLC.

This was a time before we had Food Network, so TLC was the main source of my cooking shows. I know, it's hard to imagine TLC being anything but a home improvement game show channel, but back in the day it was the prime food show channel.

It was on TLC that I discovered the chef who, to this day, remains my idol: Martin Yan.

Yan Can Cook (And So Can You!) was a brilliant show hosted by a brilliant man. Later in life--like 7th or 8th grade--I actually got to meet him: he was doing a cooking demonstration at the local Boscovs. I convinced my parents to go to the show and so I went, with spatula in hand, desperately hoping to see his knife. I was sure I would faint.

Before the show began, I was walking around the store with my parents and I saw him. He was talking to someone, but then the other person left and he was free. I was too nervous and afraid to talk to him, but dad pushed me forward. After a few more pushes, I finally went up and spoke to him. He graciously signed my spatula and then went on to give a fantastic cooking demonstration.

One thing I've always loved about Martin Yan is his dual dedication to both genuine, traditional Chinese cooking and development of new creative approaches to food. To this day, I still use the technique he showed there for cutting and de-seeding bell peppers.

I still have that spatula, and a newspaper clipping with a picture of him at the event. They're kept in special places, but literally every single time I see a bell pepper I think of that afternoon.


Whenever I watched Yan Can Cook, and Capriel's Cafe right after it, I'd get antsy. Most often, the result of this was me in the kitchen using whatever we had in the fridge and cupboards to make a new dish...and a big mess. Wow, things haven't changed much!

This is where some of my first recipes came from, like roasted red pepper bruschetta and caramelized apple applesauce. Some of those dishes are still on my list of favorite things to make.


Another place that inspired creativity in the kitchen was my grandma's house. It's not that she was one of those grandmothers who cooked a lot--she didn't--but what she does cook is great. And I remember, quite vividly, a particular time in the kitchen with her when we made up a recipe together...

I thought it was an ingenious dish--a real masterpiece, I'd never had anything else like it. After that evening, it would become a regular staple in my young cooking repertoire...

So what was it?

Yeah, as it turns out, now that I'm 23 and a bit smarter I realize that what I made that night with my grandma was a down 'n' dirty, quick 'n' easy American stir-fry.

It was basically chicken with whatever veggies were in the fridge, sauteed with soy sauce, duck sauce, and sesame oil. Some spagehetti was tossed in at the end. And, voila!

So, ok, unoriginal. But, boy was it good!


Recently, I realized that it's been absolutely ages since I've made stir-fry. So, one evening, when I had a bunch of leftover veggies and was too tired to do something elaborate, I decided that it was time for a stir-fry.


Today's Menu:

Citrus Spice Stir-Fry
Vegetable Fried Rice


The inspiration for this stir-fry recipe actually came from some leftover cabbage. I was trying to come up with something to do with it and I came across a tasty sounding slaw recipe. I didn't have the jicama it called for, but I did have a grapefruit that was just dying to be used.

I didn't really want a slaw for dinner, though. So, I thought, why not adjust it a bit and make a stir-fry recipe. The sauce would be perfect and the grapefruit would give a little zing.

To go alongside, I decided to beef up some rice...with veggies and an egg. Fried rice--haHA! Perfect.

Typically, for fried rice it's best to use day old leftover rice, but I just cooked mine up with a 1/3 less liquid than usual and put it in the freezer to cool while I made the stir-fry. It turned out juuuuust fine.


Sure, it's still not a traditional stir-fry, but I think both Yan and Grandma would be proud of me. The results had a wonderfully agreeable flavor, the grapefruit was a fantastic twist! Definitely a keeper for a quick, but not boring, lunch or dinner.






Citrus Spice Stir-Fry




[note: this recipe was inspired by a cabbage slaw recipe on Epicurious, October 2005. Feel free to try out different citruses!]





1/2 lb boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 medium purple onion, coarsely chopped

2 carrots, julienned

2 yellow bell peppers, julienned

1/4 of a small head of cabbage, coarsely shredded
1 pink grapefruit, segmented and segments cut in thirds
1/4 c soy sauce
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tsp lime juice
1 tsp chili pepper flakes

1/2 tsp sweet paprika
salt
pepper

olive oil



directions:

1. cook the meat and vegetables
a.
heat some oil in a large saucepan. add chicken and cook until starting to brown.
b. add garlic and onions and cook until onions become translucent.
c. add remaining vegetables and cook until they become tender, 3-5 minutes
d. add grapefruit and cook another minute. lower the heat.

2. make the sauce
a. combine the soy sauce, vinegar, lime juice, and spices in a bowl. whisk together.
b. add the sauce to the pan and raise the heat. cook until sauce is reduced by 1/4.







Fried Rice



[note: this is best made with leftover cooked rice. however, if you don't have any, cook some rice using 1/3 less liquid than is typically used. put the cooked rice in the fridge or freezer and let cool completely before using. you can cook the rice first and let it cool while you start the stir-fry]

1 c cooked rice
1/3 c chopped carrots
1/3 c peas, fresh or frozen
1 egg olive oil


directions:

1.
put a smidgen of olive oil in a saucepan and turn the heat to medium-high. when oil is hot, add the carrots and peas. cook until they become slightly tender, 3-5 minutes.
2. add the rice and stir until the mixture is warmed through.
3. make a hole in the center of the rice and pour in the egg. break up the egg with a spoon and stir to scramble and mix with the rice. continue stirring until all the egg is cooked.







this one's for you Martin Yan, my hero!




Comments, questions, and recipe alterations are always more than welcome.

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

saying no to the status quo.

My year in Turkey was a major time of food discovery for me...

Ok, let me clarify that statement:

It's not that Turkish food is a real adventure--for some people it is, maybe, but I grew up with it somewhat. However grains and pulses other than rice [or pasta, actually--other than manti--Turks tend to fail miserably with pasta] are featured prominently in the cuisine. This is a serious difference between the Turkish and the American diet. Sure, we've heard of lentils, but that doesn't mean we eat them and we sure as heck aren't inundated by foods that contain them.

In my opinion, Turks have a leg up on us.

This may sound strange, but I was actually lucky to have limited cabinet space in my Ankara kitchen because it forced me to devise a new method for storing dried goods like rices, grains, and pulses. After much thinking, and many empty water bottles, I developed a storage system on my counter. The great thing about this was that I constantly saw what I had--I didn't forget the bulgur in the back of the cabinet--and it got me to experiment with lots of grains and pulses in a way I'd never done before.


Now that I'm back and can't have a countertop system, I already find myself forgetting things in the back of the cabinet. It's not as bad as before, but it does happen. However, my experience in Turkey has served to bring all sorts of new ingredients and ideas to the forefront of my mind and added significant diversity to my world of food.

So, when I think about dinner now I try and actively think about my dry goods cabinet. I have great large bags of green and red lentils, yellow split peas and chickpeas, semolina and bulgur--all bought at the Indian grocer for cheap!cheap!cheap! I've got quinoa and a few shapes of pasta, as well as couscous. A few basic rices are also on the shelves, but I find now that I consume rice at a much slower pace than before. I love rice, but it gets boring!

All in all, I have a great array of ingredients. Using them I've added such dimension and variety to my cooking, as well as added significant vegetarian sources of protein and nutrients to my diet.


One thing I've started considering lately is how to use new grains in recipes traditionally made with a certain type. I don't mean going off the deep-end and going crazy to create something that doesn't even resemble the original dish. I know a lot of people who do that and it's just not for me--if I want to create something new and original, I'll do that. When I'm trying to slightly reinvent a dish I always try to keep the essence of the original.

A recent successful attempt at this is the subject of this post.


Today's Menu:

Roasted Mushroom Quniotto
Basic Salad


This menu came about for three reasons:
1. I didn't have any arborio/risotto/short-grain rice
2. I didn't actually want rice but I did want risotto
3. I wanted a vegetarian meal that provided some protein


I made this dish a few weeks ago for dinner. I had been feeling like a lot of my recent meals were a bit heavy, so I really wanted to cool it and return to vegetarian food for a little while. I knew I would be eating some hefty meals in New Mexico as well, so I thought it would be good to have a break before going.

I had considered risotto for a while, but the idea just wasn't sending me. I really really really didn't want rice. Plus, I didn't have any of the right kind of rice sitting around the house, which meant a trip to the grocery store.


I kept thinking but everything I came up with was an unpleasing idea. Time was running out, so I returned to the risotto idea. What could I do to make it better? How could I make it a good healthy meal? Could I use a different grain? But what would mush-up like rice while retaining some character?

I mentally roved through my cabinets and wasn't getting anywhere. Then, suddenly, it came to me--that little box of quinoa tucked away in the back corner...qunioa! perfect!

Not only is quinoa protein rich, but it mushes when slow cooked with liquid. It holds a bit more texture and rigidity than risotto rice, but in a good way.


It's a neat little thing, quinoa. Not technically a grain, quinoa is actually related to leafy vegetables like amaranth and Swiss chard. The leaves of the plant are eaten, but what most of us know as quinoa is actually the seeds of the plant.

If you look at a quinoa grain, it looks to me like the cross-section of one of those roly-poly pill bugs, all wrapped up snug and tight. As it cooks, the germ begins to separate from the seed making the finished product look like a little curly-cue with a clear center and an opaque outer rim. It doesn't get to be as soft as rice, but it retains a desirable slightly chewy texture.


Quinoa has a distinct earthy, nutty flavor and I wanted to accentuate this feature. So, I tried to think of what I could add to the dish that would compliment the flavors and textures of quinoa. Eventually, I came upon the idea of mushrooms--with their dirty, woody flavor they would make a nice addition. Roasting the mushrooms for a short time would also bring out their juices and create a complimentary chewy texture.

Other than that, I didn't add much. I used a flavorful vegetable broth and some fresh herbs from my windowsill, but I really wanted the interplay of flavor and texture between quinoa and mushroom to be the highlight. Paired with a light salad--parfait!


And it was. Absolutely delicious. Totally nutritious. Satisfying. A new favorite use for quinoa and a new dish in the no-fail rotation. Great for veggies and vegans. This one's a winner.

In fact, maybe I'll make it for dinner tonight...just thinking about how good it was starts me a-cravin'!










Roasted Mushroom Quinotto











for roasted mushrooms:


1/2 lb button or crimini mushrooms
olive oil
salt

pepper


for quinotto:


1/2 medium onion, chopped finely
1 cup quinoa, rinsed until water runs clear

4 c vegetable or chicken broth
water (if needed)

roasted mushrooms, sliced
1 tbsp fresh rosemary

1-1/2 tsp fresh thyme

olive oil

salt
pepper



directions:


1. roast the mushrooms

a. preheat oven to 375F
b. toss whole mushrooms with some olive oil, salt, and pepper.
c. put mushrooms stem-side-up on a baking dish lined with foil. place in oven and roast until tender but not wrinkly.
d. remove from oven and let cool before slicing

2. make the quinotto
a. pour broth into a saucepan and heat over a medium flame.
b. heat some olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. add onion and cook until translucent.
c. add quinoa and cook another 30 seconds.
d. reduce heat to medium and add 1/2 c of the warm broth. cook, stirring constantly, until the liquid is absorbed.
e. add 1/4 c more of the broth and stir until all the liquid is absorbed. repeat the process until all the broth has been used up.
f. taste the quinoa--if it is still too hard, continue the process with more broth or water until it has become quite soft and becomes somewhat mushy. it will retain a chewier texture than rice.
g. add sliced mushrooms, thyme, rosemary, and salt and pepper to taste. cook until mushrooms are warm.







Basic Salad




[note: this is my go-to salad. it's a flexible recipe that mostly depends on what i have in the fridge and what I feel like having in terms of cheese, nuts, and dried fruit]







romaine lettuce, coarsely ripped

tomato, coarsely chopped

bell pepper, coarsely chopped
cucumber, coarsely chopped
celery, coarsely chopped
scallion, coarsely chopped

carrot, coarsely grated

mushroom, coarsely chopped
feta cheese, cubed
walnuts, coarsely chopped
dried cranberries, coarsely chopped

extra virgin olive oil
balsamic vinegar



directions:

1. put the vegetables, cheese, nuts, and dried fruit in a large bowl.
2. drizzle olive oil and vinegar over top and toss to coat. add more oil and vinegar to taste.






say yes to quinotto!






Comments, questions, and recipe alterations are always more than welcome.

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

the demise of Peter Piper.

It's been a tough week--hence the lack of updates--and the forecast for the next few weeks doesn't seem to promise much better. Unfortunately, this has resulted in a lack of significant cooking which saddens me greatly and leaves you with few recipes.

But, do not pity me. In times like these I manage to prevail and always find a solution in food. Or, I should say, I always find a solution in sweet food.

I rarely end an evening meal without having a little [or a big] something sweet. This is particularly the case when life's a gettin' me down.

I'm not talking fruit salad or balsamic strawberries here, kids. I'm talking real down 'n' dirty dessert. People seem to fear dessert, but I generally can't sleep if I haven't had any; without dessert, dinner just feels incomplete.

The go-to of choice is generally ice cream--it's in my genes--but it doesn't last long in my freezer, so I rarely actually have it available. Other times, I'll make bread or rice puddings, cookies, a crumble...all quick and easy things to whip together and cook while I am eating the main meal. Sometimes, if I'm on top of things or it's a weekend, I'll make something a bit more elaborate. Then, there are the times when I just sit down with a puzzle and eat chocolate chips out of the bag.

In Turkey, I learned early on that my oven was not made for baking. So, I didn't make as much while I was there. However, one of the best things about Turkey is that you can't walk a block without seeing one, if not two or three, patisseries--glowing counters filled with 15 types of oozy, drippy baklavas, sweet and salty cookies, sutlac [Turkish rice pudding], keskule [almond pudding], or cikolata puding [chocolate pudding].

Before going to Turkey, I was never much of a traditional pudding fan. I don't know why that is exactly...but now that I think about it, I suppose my only real experience with the stuff was in Jello box pudding or those pudding cups. Highly unsatisfying.

But, over the past year, I discovered that a nice, cold, chocolaty pudding can be one of the most delightfully refreshing desserts, especially after a long day working hard out in the sun. Additionally, I learned that it's so easy to make!


Today's Menu:

The Peppered Pudding that Peter Piper Poo-pooed for Pickled Peppers Subsequently Lost



Since Turkey, homemade chocolate pudding is often found on my List of Current Cravings and has become one of my new found comfort foods.

As I did some research on making pudding, I discovered that there are two forms: pudding made with eggs and pudding made without eggs. They are somewhat different in that pudding made with eggs is quite custardy and, in my opinion, richer than that made without eggs. I actually find it to be less satisfying, as a result. A custard has its place--don't get me wrong, I love creme brulee--but when I want pudding, I don't want custard.

Making pudding with eggs, though still insanely simple, requires a greater number of ingredients and a bit more time. Nonetheless, if you're a custard lover, that's the kind of pudding for you.

On the flip side, most puddings that are made without eggs call for the use of cornstarch as a thickening agent...

Uh-oh!

I try to avoid cornstarch and corn syrup as much as possible. So, when I first went to make my own pudding I spent a lot of time trying to find a recipe that didn't use the stuff. Let's just say this: I did a lot of looking.

But, every recipe I read insisted on cornstarch. I remembered that in Turkey they sometimes used gum mastic, but I'd have to go a ways away to get a bit. Some people did suggest arrowroot flour as a reasonable substitute, which I also couldn't get quickly, and there is always tapioca...but that's a different beast unto itself.

I was shocked, though, that no one included plain old flour in the mix. Sure, it doesn't have the thickening power of cornstarch [you have to use two times the amount], but it sure does thicken stuff...

As I kept looking around, I found that people did mention flour, but not in a good way: "It gets too gummy", they'd say.


In the end, after spending all that time looking around and researching and reading opinions and getting myself into a general tizzy over the whole thing, I looked at my watch and realized that it didn't matter anymore because I didn't have the time to do much about it.


So, since I didn't have eggs or cornstarch or tapioca or arrowroot flour, I decided to defy the statements of all the nay-sayers and use that plain old flour.

And guess what--it was good! In fact, it was great!

Maybe it's just because I was making a small amount, but I didn't find the pudding to be gummy at all. It set well and wasn't too rich.


Another great thing about pudding is that it's quite versatile--the flavor options are endless. In the month since first trying it, I've made this pudding at least three times in three different variations:

The first time I made it I went for classic chocolate pudding. The second time, it was mint chocolate pudding, which was utterly delicious. The third time, I wanted to spice it up a bit--it would go well with what I had planned for dinner--but I was tired of the classic "Mexican" spiced chocolate, with red pepper and cinnamon.

After thinking about it a bit, I decided to take a little risk and I created a peppered pudding: rich chocolate delicately laced with coarsely ground black pepper.

The result was phenomenal.

And so, I share my Peppered Pudding with you today.

I highly recommend you try the recipe sometime, even if you forgo this particular flavoring. The basic chocolate is very satisfying, and it is a great base for flavor experimentation. One note of caution: as I said, this pudding did not turn out tasting gummy, but I was making a very small batch of it--for two or three persons--and that may have had something to do with it. If you want to increase the recipe yield, consider using a different thickening agent. Or take the risk and let me know how it works out!




The Peppered Pudding that Peter Piper Poo-pooed for Pickled Peppers Subsequently Lost




[note: this recipe is adapted from one found at Smitten Kitchen. It thickens quite quickly, so be aware]





1/4 c flour
1/4 c sugar
a pinch of salt
1-1/2 c milk
3-oz semisweet or dark chocolate, coarsely chopped
1 tsp cocoa powder [optional]
1/2 tsp coarsely ground black pepper


directions:

1.
combine flour, sugar, and salt in a non-reactive bowl. place bowl on top of a pot of boiling water, but be sure the water does not touch the bottom of the bowl.
2. whisk in the milk and continue stirring the mixture until it thickens and coats the back of a spoon.
3. add the chocolate and cocoa powder. continue stirring until the pudding is thick and smooth.
4. remove from the heat and quickly whisk in the black pepper.
5. transfer to small bowls and put in the refrigerator to cool slowly or the freezer to cool quickly. let cool until set, at least 30 minutes.




if only Peter Piper had picked a peck of peppered pudding, no one would care about where those darned pickled peppers went!





Comments, questions, and recipe alterations are always more than welcome.


Wednesday, April 2, 2008

when the calendar lies.

Whew, what a week!

I know, I know--I just went completely AWOL with no warning.

I'm sorry!

But, it was for a good reason: I was in New Mexico.

Yeah, the PB and I took a little trip on a whim [thank you quarter systems] to gorge ourselves on some sun and chiles.

And boy-oh-boy did I gorge...especially on those chiles...and all other things New Mexican food.


The trip couldn't have come at a more perfect time: I desperately needed some respite from my steadily declining roommate situation and from Chicago's idea of springtime.

That's right--despite all my efforts to bring springy vibes into my life, the epic First Day of Spring came to Chicago in droves of snow and cold.


The week before we left was particularly trying; the anticipation of going was eating me from the inside out. Every day leading up to NM I checked the weather reports, crossing all my fingers in the hopes that any number above 35 would show up on my screen.

Luckily, those golden numbers--40s, 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s--did pop up. However, that didn't change the fact that Chicago was still cold and gray. Spring was supposed to be on its way [March 22nd], but there was no evidence supporting that idea.


So, if spring wasn't going to come to me willingly, I intended to violently grab Spring by the throat and shake it forcefully until it had whiplash, screamed "yes, yes, Spring is coming to town", and obliged.

Ok, ok, I wasn't that mean. I was actually quite gentle, celebrating Spring instead of spitting in its face until it capitulated.

How?
Surprise, surprise--I did it with food.

Well, I mean, how could I not make spring foods when I realized that Nowruz was coming up? It was just the perfect time to celebrate all things springy and sunny and fun!

Ok, some background:

Nowruz is the Islamic--though most often associated specifically with Iran--new year and spring festival. As with most Islamic holidays, food is a big part of the celebrations. Like Passover and Easter, eggs play a big roll in the array of traditional Nowruz foods.


For my Nowruz meal, I decided to focus on some traditional Persian dishes.


Today's Menu:

Herb Kuku
Dill and Pistachio Rice
Pomegranate Chicken


As I was doing research, I realized that while Persian cuisine has an almost overwhelming number of dishes in its repertoire, there are a very limited number dedicated to the Nowruz meal. Luckily, those are some of my favorite dishes to eat and make:

I love, love, love dilled rice.

The special kind of sweet-and-sour that flavors pomegrante chicken is always so appealingly different.

The plethora of pungent herbs in the kuku is delightfully refreshing.



As a warning, Persian foods tend to be not-so photogenic, often characterized by "unappealing brown color" and a gunky look. However, the flavors are swell and you absolutely must try these recipes sometime.

Additionally, in terms of the visual, you can present the meal in nice dishes and garnish with pomegranate and parsley. Unfortunately for this post, pomegranates were also a no-show in HP that week, but those little ruby gem-like beads do wonders to the look.


With these dishes on my mind, I was sure I could cajole Spring into attending the meal.
Alas, it was not to be--Spring was a no-show. Despite all my hard work and sincere emotions, the next day was cold and nasty.

But, at least at dinnertime it felt like springtime in my house.


As an added bonus, I did get a great gulp of spring in NM, and it seems the season is now slowly creeping into Chicago's territory--accompanied, of course, by the inevitable Spring Rain.

Oh well. At least spring produce is on its way!


happy spring feasting!



Herb Kuku

[note: this recipe was adapted from the one found at Epicurious. I followed it pretty closely, but I'm thinking about all the different directions I can take the dish. I suggest playing with the herbs trying out some different flavors/textures with nuts, seeds, dried fruits, and even vegetables!]




1/2 c olive oil
5 eggs

1 tsp baking powder

3/4 tsp cinnamon
3/4 tsp cardamom

1/2 tsp cumin
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 c chopped fresh chives
1 c chopped fresh parsley

1 c chopped fresh cilantro
1 c chopped fresh dill
1 tbsp flour



directions:

1. preheat oven to 350F and grease a baking dish with olive oil.
2.
put the remaining ingredients in a bowl and whisk lightly to combine.
3.
pour the mixture into the baking dish and bake uncovered until the edge is brown, approximately 45 minutes.




Dill and Pistachio Rice

[note: this recipe is adapted from the one found in Gourmet, May 2001. Some recipes for Persian rice create a crunchy layer on the bottom that is most prized. While the original recipe for this rice is supposed to make this layer, I didn't make it because I was too hungry. However, if you continue to cook it longer it will make the crunchy layer.]



1-1/2 c basmati rice
8 c water
1-1/2 tbsp salt
3 tbsp butter
1/3 c chopped fresh dill
1/2 c coarsely chopped pistachios


directions:

1. soak rice [note: if you don't have time for this part, skip to #2]
a. rinse the rice until the water runs clear.
b. put rice in a pot and cover with water. let sit 30 minutes-1 hour.

2. parboil the rice
a. rinse the rice and return it to the pot. add water and salt. bring to a boil and cook, uncovered, 5 minutes.
b. remove rice from the heat and drain.

3. cook rice
a.
melt butter in the pot.
b. spoon some rice into the pot to cover the bottom.
c. sprinkle some of the pistachios and dill over the rice.
d. repeat the b and c, ending with a layer of rice.
e. cover the pot with a dishtowel and then the lid. fold the dishtowel up over the lid to make sure it doesn't burn.
f. cook rice, undisturbed, over moderately low heat until cooked, approximately 30 minutes.



Pomegranate Chicken


[
note: this recipe is adapted from one found at Epicurious. This is a delicious dish but tends to be quite sweet--you can reduce the sugar if you want. Pomegranate molasses or syrup can usually be found in Middle Eastern stores and tends to be relatively cheap. You can also find it at places like Whole Foods, where it tends to be more expensive]


for the chicken:

2 tbsp olive oil
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 lb boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into cubes
2 large carrots, peeled and cut into rounds


for the sauce:

1/2 lb walnuts
1 tsp salt
1/2 c pomegranate molasses
2-1/2 c water

2 tbsp sugar
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground saffron threads, dissolved in 1 tbsp hot water



directions:

1. make the sauce
a. mix the pomegranate molasses and water together.
b. put walnuts, salt, diluted pomegranate molasses, sugar, cinnamon, and saffron in a food processor or blender.
c. blend until smooth.

2. make the chicken
a.
heat oil in a saucepan. add onions and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes.
b. add chicken and cook until browned, about 15 minutes.
c. add carrots and cook a few minutes longer.
d. add the sauce to the pan and simmer over low heat until sauce thickens significantly, about 40 minutes.
e. taste for seasoning--add more diluted pomegranate molasses for sourness and more sugar for sweetness.







Spring's got some guts not showin' up for this meal!





Comments, questions, and recipe alterations are always more than welcome.